‘Every Cook Must Learn Here’: Unassuming Turkish Eatery Earns Fourth on Roll of London’s Best Food Spots.

When compiling a roll of London’s best eateries, one might foresee familiar award-winning names. But, nestled near the top among these culinary giants is a simple salonu found in a far-flung corner of northern London.

An Surprise Honour

The compact Turkish spot, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the fourth finest restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent gastronomic guide. This honour has left the owners completely shocked.

“I am totally astonished,” states a proprietor, alluding to his parents’ hard graft that culminated in their small shop securing such a prominent position on a notable 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

This small shop, which started as a basic cafe before its transformation into a popular food hotspot, has kept much of its earlier character. It fits just over 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking show, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate spot,” comments the owner.

The Namesake Offering: Tantuni

However, it is focused on the cuisine, and this restaurant more than excels. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a moist, juicy quality.

It is then tossed into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in gradually. As the savoury mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to absorb all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is folded neatly inside.

It is usually consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a strong slap of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The respected food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, imparting it a deeper, nuttier and less sickly profile.

Surpassing the Titans

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for less than £25, similar meals at luxury establishments can start at significantly more than that figure.

The Creed of Heart

It is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I don’t subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is most important is warmth, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is echoed by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he was in a position of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the dangers of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Path of Dedication

Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t apprentice at fancy restaurants. “I am really happy of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants need years to find their footing, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum would be really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a personal life but her friends would visit to support her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

An Accomplishment for the Community

The restaurant’s accolade is likely to have meaning outside its own walls. “I believe numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the broader importance of this gastronomic achievement.

Mr. Christopher Green
Mr. Christopher Green

A digital strategist with over a decade of experience in helping startups and SMEs scale through innovative online solutions.